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Footsteps in Time

Convertible shoe-boot, 1907

Footsteps in Time

A timeline of footwear styles compiled by footwear designer Caroline Southernwood. With thanks to Rebecca Shawcross and the Northampton Museum and Art Gallery for permission to use their images.

c. 3500 BC

Pampootie (Rivlins)

A reproduction of one of the earliest known shoe styles, made from cured cowhide and secured with twine. 

c. 600 AD

Leather sandal with a coptic Y-strap. 

1350-1400

Medieval poulaine

A fashionable style throughout the medieval period, the length of the ‘pointes’ was periodically regulated by law.

1600

Chopines

With heights up to 45 cm (18 in.), chopines emerged as a popular women’s style during the Renaissance, although they were originally practical overshoes.

1640–59

The shoe rose

Ladies’ silk satin mule, embroidered in coloured threads and sequins.

17th century

First heels

Ladies’ silk brocade shoes. 

1720–50

The French heel

Ladies’ silk damask mules.

1860

Wellington Boot

Men’s red Morocco and black patent Wellington boot, a style popularised by the 1st Duke of Wellington.

1890

Men’s factory-made leather Derby boot

Mechanisation transformed the process of making shoes in the 19th century.

1911

Men’s black Bordeaux calf leather, racing jockey boot.

1914–18

Womens glacé kid leather brogue Oxford shoes.

1920s

Three jewelled heels

Ladies shoes, from the roaring twenties.

1930s

Glamour

Pink leather strap sandals with diamanté buckles. 

1948

Post-war footwear

Platform sole sling back.

1958

Green silk ladies’ stiletto

 

1961

Dr Martens AirWair

The making of a classic – the first boot off the production line in 1961.

1975

Platform sandals

Designed by Terry de Havilland.

1997

Union Jack glitter boots

Made by Shellys London and popularised by the Spice Girls.

1999

Super Elevated Ghillie Shoe

Manufactured in green mock crock leather and designed by Vivienne Westwood.

2021

Caroline Groves, Sepia

Bespoke handmade shoes, 2021

2021

Handmade bespoke sneakers

Sneakers made using recycled materials, Helen Kirkum Studio.