Worshipful Company of Cordwainers

LCF Shoe Collection Exhibition

Posted by: cordwainers Date: 23 May 2014

At the Livery Dinner in November, members of the Company were able to view an exhibition of shoes from the London College of Fashion. These ranged from the work of recent graduates, to historic items from the collection.

Selected By Liveryman Sue Saunders, Senior Lecturer at LCF, the display provided a wonderful snapshot of women’s shoes across 300 years. The display was curated by Jane Holt, Senior Research Fellow, Archives, at the London College of Fashion.

Sarah (So Yeon) Ahn (2013) Junior footwear designer: Eternal Best. Sarah’s work has been exhibited at Dutch Design Week and as a student she was chosen by the industry partner as the winner of a project. Inspired by the urban landscape and architecture Sarah created this shoe using pony skin and textured materials in toning colours to define the different areas. The extended slatted section at the back was a technical challenge as this effect cannot be achieved through standard shoemaking processes. 12
Harriet Sloan-Eddolls (2013) Junior footwear designer, Ted Baker. Harriet recently won first prize in a footwear design competition. Her shoe is being produced in a limited edition in 2014. Harriet’s love of traditional Arabic ceramic tiles influenced the laser etched patterns on the sole and heel of this sandal. Unexpected material combinations and construction techniques have been used subtly to create interesting features without losing the wearability of the product. 11
Rosanna Gault (2013)After working as a freelance designer for a new company, Rosanna has just been appointed as their full time junior designer.`Three of Rosanna’s designs were put into production by the industry project partner who launched them with a tea party at their flagship store in London. Keeping the upper simple to create a background for the metal work, Rosanna’s black suede court shoe has a hidden platform. The metal heel and ornate lines of the back part are inspired by the industrial revolution and Victoriana. The detailed brass overlay was cut by water jet, engraved by hand, then polished to a high shine. 10
Nikki Robinson (graduated 2004).Nikki’s shoes have finely engraved texts on the soles and come with a pair of gold Lurex mess stockings. 9

The historic women’s shoes were selected from LCF Archives which includes the Cordwainers’ Company Historic Shoe Collection of over 70 historically interesting shoes purchased by the Company and now on long- term loan to LCF Archives.

1720–30 Woman’s bottle-green braided satin shoe with pointed toe and medium heel. English. A decorative buckle would have been used to fasten the shoe. 8
1830 Woman’s sandal shoe/slip-on shoe in ivory silk,rounded-square toe. English. This type of shoe would have been worn indoors, and possibly for dancing although the good condition of the sole suggests this shoe was not extensively worn. 13
1870-72 Woman’s bronze light shoe, square toe,high heel, glace kid, label Marshall of London, English. This tiny shoe has a disproportionally high heel, suggesting it was worn by a very petite lady. 7
1900 Woman’s button bar, glace leather shoe with black beading on the vamp and throat. English.  The inner sole has the trade label ‘Lady Randolph’.  6
1910 Woman’s kid leather shoe with steel beading on vamp and bar. English. This shoe has a ‘Louis’ heel giving it elegant, balanced proportions. 5
1920 Two-button bar woman’s kid leather shoe. English.The sole is stamped ‘Louis Turnstile Norwich England’.  4
1935 Woman’s evening court shoe in cream suede and silver leather with paste diamante decoration. This is a Belgian shoe with the trade name ‘Debusselverd’ stamped inside. 3
1943 English wooden clog-type sandal. The sticker on the sole shows that it was on sale at 26/3 reduced to 5/, reduced to 2/. During the Second World War leather and other shoemaking materials were scarce, so wood was often used. The wedge sole of the clog is stylish and similar to the sandals made by Salvatore Ferragamo in the 1930s. 2
Savita Dutt (graduated 1995).

Woman’s shoe. English. The traditional button bar fastening has been given a modern twist by using two buttons and adding a fringed, detachable vamp. Exhibited in Clothes Show Live ’94 project.